Keeping up with Fashion
As fashion changed at court, owners could update their garments with new accessories. Collars were especially important and could be quite magnificent. Male collars tended to be triangular, flaring up slightly around the neck. Women’s collars could range from quadrilobe to more dramatic shapes. Patrons could also order new borders for their sleeves and hems, and all would append beautifully woven silk pouches to their robes. Hats and shoes were also crucial silk accessories, their styles reflecting the wearers’ status and the season. Silk shoes for bound feet of the Han women were minute in size, while those for the Manchu ladies, who did not bind their feet, were standard. Interestingly, some Manchu ladies mimicked the delicate, unsteady gait of Han ladies by adopting shoes with one central heel.
Court Collar for Man (pi ling)
China, 18th-19th century
Embroidered polychrome silk, satin stitch, edged gold brocade
H. 38 cm x L. 77 cm
Chris Hall Collection
Lady's Central-Heeled Shoes for Bound Feet
China, c. 1850
Embroidered polychrome silk
H. 16 cm x L. 9 cm x W. 4 cm
Chris Hall Collection
Drawstring Kesi Purse
China, 18th-19th century
Slit tapestry (kesi), polychrome silk
H. 11 cm (25 with tassle) x W. 12 cm
Chris Hall Collection
Lady's Embroidered Collar
China, late 19th century
Glass beads, polychrome silk, gold threads
H. 96 cm with tassel x W. 61 cm
Chris Hall Collection
Drawstring Purse for High-Level Official
China, 19th century
Embroidered polychrome silk, yellow ties
H. 10.75 cm x L. 12.5
Chris Hall Collection